T.R.O.G. 2024 WILDWOOD: RACE ENTRY
IMPORTANT
Prior to constructing, please fill out the entry form below with at least 4 clear photos: front, left, right & back (outside only, please no garage photos), with full details of the vehicle. We only want you to have to do it once!
NOTE: if your car or bike has raced T.R.O.G. before, you may keep your number.
RACER QUESTIONS ONLY: raceteam@theraceofgentlemen.com
CARS
Year: Car bodies must be 1934 or older, American made only.
Engine: American made 4 cylinder and V8 flatheads 1953 or older. OHV 1949-1953
Fuel: Gas only, NO ALCOHOL OR NITRO!
Running gear: 1953 or older. No modern transmissions, disc brakes, alternators, etc.
Wheels & Tires: No 15 inch wheels. 16, 17 & 18 inch only. No widening of wheels, stock only. No aggressive knobby or paddle tires. No wood T wheels, no stock A wheels.
Paint: Period paint that emulates the early days of racing. No late model graphics, No vinyl stickers or emblems, etc. Cars can be shiny, primed or have old paint. No sponsorship/advertising allowed on cars or bikes without written consent. 3 number maximum. Do not letter your car until you receive your approved number.
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS & RESTRICTIONS
ALL cars must have a modern 5 point harness. Black or dark green with the modern tags removed.
All car racers need a DOT half helmet dated within the last 7 years.
Cars must have visible race numbers. 3 number maximum. Numbers should appear utilitarian, not modern or fancy. Paint, white masking tape or shoe polish also accepted.
No headlights for race.
No white wall tires unless pre-approved by T.R.O.G. or aggressive tread.
No Fenders on hot rods (some very early-teens racers and speedsters may be exempt but must be pre-approved).
No stock body sedans, or closed cab pickups unless heavily modified!!
Vintage, reproduction parts are accepted. i.e.; frame rails, intakes, cylinder heads, ignition systems, Stromberg carb's, etc. Converted 12 volt generators are ok, no alternators.
Absolutely no fiberglass bodies.
A vintage style round or square roll bar is needed on roadsters. No cages, just like the originals. When sitting, the roll bar needs to be no more than 2 inches over the driver’s head with a helmet on. No lower than helmet height.
CLASSES
4 CYLINDER AUTO: All American flathead four cylinder makes and speed vintage equipment are accepted. Overhead valve, trans adapters and 1939 transmissions are acceptable. NO Modern Transmissions or parts accepted.
NOTE: This class will be limited in size. Only the fastest will get in.
FLATHEAD V8: 1932-1953 American flatheads and speed equipment is accepted. NO late-model carbs or alternators are accepted. All vintage speed equipment and 12 volt converted generators are accepted.
DRAG/RAIL: All Entries must use stock model T or A frames only. Homemade tube needs to be submitted for approval. You can not lengthen frames over the stock FORD MOTOR COMPANY length, you may shorten if you wish. Early homemade tube frames will be accepted. Wheel base or front and rear axels may move or be altered in either direction. Acceptable engines are, FLATHEAD 4 cyl, FLATHEAD V8, STRAIGHT SIX and OHV 1949-1954. No bodies or tin is allowed in the drag class, only a small firewall if desired. Roll bars must resemble safety bars of this era. Square bars, round tube only. No full cages or roll bars made from exhaust tube.
EARLY OHV: Engines 1954 or older. All makes USA. All cars or trucks will need to be hopped up, cut down or customized in a traditional late 1940s to early 1950s style. Transmissions: 3 speed Ford ONLY, Ford banjo rears ONLY. Bodies up to 1941 (exception for this class only). No modern wide slicks unless pre-approved. More modern years can be submitted for special consideration.
GRUDGE MATCHES: RUN FOR FUN, RACE YOUR FRIENDS, BANGER vs V8, sprint car vs motorcycle, etc., anything goes. OILERS will award their favorite race and racers.
BIKES
Modify your bike for racing. No “straight off the street” bikes. No headlights, no full fenders, etc.. Bikes must be “Bobbed” and stripped-down for racing. The idea is to recreate the look and feel of bikes that would be drag racing in the streets in the late 1940’s and 1950’s. This is NOT a Rat Rod or Steam Punk event! The below specs are for motorcycles from 1930-1947. Big Twins and 45’s. Motorcycles that are pre 1930, send in your photos and descriptions.
CLASSES: Big Twin and 45 inch
Year, Make and Model: 1947 or older, American made. No “K” Models or Sportsters.
Engine: 1947 or older. Knucklehead, Flathead or other American Overheads - no aftermarket motors, S&S, etc.
General Overall: Period fasteners. No nylon zip ties. No yellow, red etc. plug wires (if you have them, wrap them in black friction tape). No modern hardware. No Billit or modern parts.
Fuel Tanks: OEM tanks, modified and period smaller tanks (i.e. Wassell, Hummer, etc.) may be accepted upon approval.
Carburetor: Period carburetors. Linkert, other factory or period (1957 and older) carburetors. Absolutely NO LATE-MODEL CARBURETORS…no Mikuni, S&S, etc.
Ignition: Period timers, distributors and magnetos. Exception on magnetos: older Sportster-type, Morris or Joe Hunt type magnetos are OK with approval. No modern-looking magnetos.
Transmission: Period transmission. No blatantly late-model or aftermarket transmissions.
Shifting: Period shifters and clutches. Hand shift, foot clutch are acceptable - no later style “Jockey” ratchet lids, no aftermarket chopper style clutch pedals. Period foot shift conversions (i.e. B&H, Thoro Shift, Speedy Shift) are OK.
Frame: Harley Davidson - OEM Rigid. Indian - OEM Rigid or stock sprung rear (40-53).
Forks: Period forks. Harley springer, Indian girder or leaf spring… period hydraulics i.e. Harley Davidson, Indian and Vard are OK. Other period hydraulic forks submit for approval.
Wheels: Period wheels and hubs - no late model hubs. Early aluminum rims are OK.
Brakes: Period mechanical drum - no disk brakes or hydraulic drum brakes.
Tires: Period tires with period tread - aggressive OK (i.e. Grasshopper, Firestone ANS, etc.) “Streetable” period slicks are OK only when racing on asphalt.
Paint: Period style paint that emulates the time period. No late model tank graphics, emblems, etc. Bikes can be shiny or crusty as long as they are PERIOD CORRECT. No blatant “Rat Rod” or “Steam Punk” style paint jobs.
Number Plates or Painted Numbers: Period number plates with racing number clearly visible on both sides of the bike and front fork (if possible). Period style number plates, no yellow plastic Motocross plates with zip-ties. Paint or shoe polish on both sides of the gas tank is OK if you can’t do plates.
RACER QUESTIONS
Email us at raceteam@theraceofgentlemen.com